.- the inexpensive dual-SID/FM replacement that you can build yourself -.

SIDKick pico by Frenetic is a microcontroller-based C64 SID replacement. Analog inputs for paddles and mice are available just as for the original SID.

The 0.22 version includes new features such as:

• Advanced SID filter settings plus 19x measured 6581 filter curves (measurements by Antti S. Lankila)
• Support for Pico 2 / RP2350
• Change bus timings (if still necessary at all!) by pressing reset for ~5 seconds, factory reset by pressing reset for >10 seconds
• Optional offsetting of paddle values now via the configuration tool

(I also added a version of the firmwares where the reset-functionality requires ~30 seconds and ~60 seconds reset press, in case the shorter times conflict with kernal switchers or other extensions)

Review:

My SID Player plays SID tunes with the SIDKick-pico.
SIDKick-Pico by Frenetic.

Download: SIDKick-Pico Firmware v0.22 (10)

source: c64-wiki.com github.com/frntc/SIDKick-pico

I thank my friend Andrea for giving me a selection of fantastic PCB of game cartridges for Commodore 64.

Gallery:

I was commissioned to do this little job of trust, the repair of a SHARP MZ-800 that had the following problems.

• The composite video RCA connector was torn out.
• The cassette counter reset button was broken.

After several attempts to glue the broken pieces back together and not finding anyone online who had designed it, i decided to make it myself from scratch and print it, for such a small size, the result is quite good.

Regarding the missing RCA connector, i installed a new one by soldering it directly on the modulator chassis.

Gallery:

Download: Reset Button TAPE Recorder Sharp MZ-800 by Xad (76)

Although i’ve already modified an original VideoPAC game cartridge to fith the PicoPAC by A. Ottaviani, i also wanted to try the 3D-designed case by Yannick Erb but i have modified a few things that i didn’t like.

The final result is good.

Here are the modifications i made to Yannick Erb’s case:

• Enlarged the hole to fith the button cover.
• Hole for the firmware update button.
• PicoPAC logo using VideoPAC fonts (there is also a version with a colored logo)
• Guides to lock the top cover so it can’t be lifted or moved left or right.

Gallery:

Download: PicoPAC Cartridge Case by Yannick Erb mixed by Xad (76)

Source: https://github.com/aotta/PicoPAC

Firmware update for FNIRSI® 2C53T Handheld 3in1 Oscilloscope Multimeter Signal Generator.

• 2C53T Firmware V1.2.0

source: https://www.fnirsi.com/pages/manuals-firmwares

A few months ago, i printed 3D the MOS 6581 LightBox but out of laziness i hadn’t yet installed a home automation LED strip.

I’ll leave you with the photos, there’s no point in describing what seems obvious :D

Gallery:

The print of the case for the Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Harlequin version has been finished with a total print time of 23 hours (slow print mode), including filament drying.

These are the changes made to the original designs:

• The feet on the bottom of the case have been removed to avoid the need supports; non-slip feet can now be applied without any problems.
• The depth of the square hole on the front panel for the Commodore logo has been reduced.
• Removed the POWER and DRIVE text on the faceplate embossed and not printing correctly with a new carved text.
• The hole on the front panel for the MeGALoDOS OLED has been closed.
• Commodore label for the front panel.

Link original project:

• https://www.printables.com/model/516220-frontcover-for-commodore-1541-ii-with-megalodos-mu
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348655
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349480

Gallery:

Download: STL files for Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Case (131) (FIXED Download LINK)

Andrea Ottaviani (aotta) has released a couple of firmware updates for the Flash Multicarts based on the Pico Clone (Purple)

PiRTO II v. 1.05b7 (Intellivision flash multicart)

Changelog:

• Added Arduino IDE version, new environment left more ram space and let games until 180kb run.
• Fixed Time Pilot.

WARNING!!! THIS NEW VERSION USE A NEW FILE SYSTEM AND YOU NEED TO FORMAT THE PICO FLASH AND RE-UPLOAD ALL BIN+CFG FILES!!!!!

Download:

• PiRTO II (Intellivision flash multicart) v1.05b7 (141)

source: https://github.com/aotta

I needed a volume control lever for one of my NMS-1515 recorders. I couldn’t find a ready-made STL, so i designed it myself.

I’ve published the STL on major 3D object sites: thingiverse.com, makerworld.com, printables.com, makeronline.com and many others.

3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo
• Filament: Anycubic PLA+
• Color: Black
• Sparse infill density: 50%
• Skirt Loops: 2
• Layer Height: 0.16mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ
• Ironing: All top surface
• Support: Tree (auto)

Download: Volume Lever Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) STL (122)

Yet another Chinese product, but for €13 it was worth trying this crazy piece of crap. It works well for the price, but the problem, as I suspected, is the focal length, which is practically zero.

The protective ring MUST be placed on the object, so if we need to identify SMD components, such as 201 or 402 format, it “COULD” be fine, or if we want to see moles on the skin, leaves, hair, tiny insects, a cat’s butthole might even be fine, but if we want to use this lens to analyze broken tracks or micro short circuits with a PCB that uses THT components, it’s no good, absolutely useless because hits the components/pins/soldering points, the viewing range is limited, i should be much further away, but the lens doesn’t allow it and consequently it doesn’t focus.

Perfect gift for my daughter :-D

Gallery:

I made some modifications to the case for A. Ottaviani PiRTO-II cartridge.

I modified the case redesigned by Eskimo, which is essentially a MIX with some improvements to the A. Ottaviani case.

Not satisfied, i created another MIX by modifying the following:

• Removed the tab just below the female USB-C connector. I had already made this modification previously because all the USB-C cables i have available don’t fit; they hit the tab.
• Plugged the LED hole, which i find absolutely HORRIBLE. Since the LED is on the PCB and not flush with the case, it would need to be placed with a piece of fiber optic fiber the same diameter as the hole, which i will never do. Also, the LED is clearly visible if you use a colored filament from the case with a 50% fill.
• A hole for upgrading the firmware without opening the case. Remember that self-tapping screws on the PLA have a short lifespan. 
• MENU button hole was enlarged to include a cover, which makes the whole thing nice.

Download: PiRTO-II Xad Remixed STL Cartridge Case (171)

source: github.com/aotta/PiRTOII

I tried for the first time this circuit to mod the Atari 2600 to have a Composite video output and S-Video instead of RF.

I must say that this modification really amazed me, and i’ve made several others, all very similar for the Atari 2600.

The signal is clean (crystal clear) with both outputs (composite or S-Video), and installation is very simple.

Just place the PCB on the TIA pins (solder side) and solder; no need to remove anything.

I made two different modifications: one with only composite video and the other one with S-Video output as well.

For the version with the composite video output, i always used the same system of installing a 3.5mm female jack in the antenna connector hole (requires removal of the RCA RF plug), everything perfectly secured with a 3D-printed adapter.

For the version with Composite video and SVIDEO output, i used a female mini-DIN, the same one found on the SEGA SATURN.
I soldered the connector’s metal casing to the ground of the RCA RF connector after removing it and also isolated a trace of the RF signal PCB (center RCA pin) that made contact with the metal casing by removing a resistor.

The cable used is the same as the SEGA SATURN; it has dual outputs: RCA AUDIO, RCA COMPOSITE VIDEO, and SVIDEO. I had to cut a strip of about 0.5mm from the plastic casing of the mini-DIN connector to make it fit perfectly in the antenna hole of the Atari 2600 JR.

Gallery with only Composite Video Output:

Gallery with both Composite and Svideo Video Output:

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source: https://retrosix.co.uk/Atari-2600-CleanComp-Composite-Video-Out-p537997297

3D printing and replacement of the pulverized gears on the Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) cassette deck.

I decided to print the gears because are available for download on the Thingiverse website.

I modified the hole diameter which was too narrow and added a fastening system for the two fast-forward gears to avoid using supports during 3D printing.

The fastening system is nothing more than a washer of the right thickness and hole diameter that must be pressed firmly into the pin protruding from the gear until it fits.

The final result is good and works, but the gears are quite noisy; it’s still a homemade print and has nothing to do with the original Teflon or Nylon gears.

Some information about 3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Bambulab A1 Mini
• Filament: ESUN PLA+
• Color: Orange
• Sparse infill density gears: 50%
• Sparse infill density washer: 90%
• Skirt Loops: 3
• Layer Height: 0.1mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ

Gallery:

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Download: Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) Gears STL (165)

I received the Atari 2600 “Dark Vader” version for repair.

The problem was a black screen and since it had happened several times before i was sure the 6504 CPU was dead but in this case is the TIA dead.

I also made a composite video mod by removing the RF modulator and a couple of components. I used a 3.5mm female jack as the audio/video output, which is less invasive than two female RCA.

Gallery: