After my previous 3D print of the Commodore 1541-II floppy drive front cover, i wanted to fix some internal aspects of the front cover that i felt causing glitches in the print.

I also wanted to try printing diagonally with a few supports, and i have to say that the result is definitely better than the previous one.

Download: Commodore 1541-II Frontcover Fixed v3 (STL) (5)

I was commissioned to do this little job of trust, the repair of a SHARP MZ-800 that had the following problems.

• The composite video RCA connector was torn out.
• The cassette counter reset button was broken.

After several attempts to glue the broken pieces back together and not finding anyone online who had designed it, i decided to make it myself from scratch and print it, for such a small size, the result is quite good.

Regarding the missing RCA connector, i installed a new one by soldering it directly on the modulator chassis.

Gallery:

Download: Reset Button TAPE Recorder Sharp MZ-800 by Xad (95)

Although i’ve already modified an original VideoPAC game cartridge to fith the PicoPAC by A. Ottaviani, i also wanted to try the 3D-designed case by Yannick Erb but i have modified a few things that i didn’t like.

The final result is good.

Here are the modifications i made to Yannick Erb’s case:

• Enlarged the hole to fith the button cover.
• Hole for the firmware update button.
• PicoPAC logo using VideoPAC fonts (there is also a version with a colored logo)
• Guides to lock the top cover so it can’t be lifted or moved left or right.

Gallery:

Download: PicoPAC Cartridge Case by Yannick Erb mixed by Xad (99)

Source: https://github.com/aotta/PicoPAC

The print of the case for the Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Harlequin version has been finished with a total print time of 23 hours (slow print mode), including filament drying.

These are the changes made to the original designs:

• The feet on the bottom of the case have been removed to avoid the need supports; non-slip feet can now be applied without any problems.
• The depth of the square hole on the front panel for the Commodore logo has been reduced.
• Removed the POWER and DRIVE text on the faceplate embossed and not printing correctly with a new carved text.
• The hole on the front panel for the MeGALoDOS OLED has been closed.
• Commodore label for the front panel.

Link original project:

• https://www.printables.com/model/516220-frontcover-for-commodore-1541-ii-with-megalodos-mu
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348655
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349480

Gallery:

Download: STL files for Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Case (156) (FIXED Download LINK)

I needed a volume control lever for one of my NMS-1515 recorders. I couldn’t find a ready-made STL, so i designed it myself.

I’ve published the STL on major 3D object sites: thingiverse.com, makerworld.com, printables.com, makeronline.com and many others.

3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo
• Filament: Anycubic PLA+
• Color: Black
• Sparse infill density: 50%
• Skirt Loops: 2
• Layer Height: 0.16mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ
• Ironing: All top surface
• Support: Tree (auto)

Download: Volume Lever Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) STL (141)

I made some modifications to the case for A. Ottaviani PiRTO-II cartridge.

I modified the case redesigned by Eskimo, which is essentially a MIX with some improvements to the A. Ottaviani case.

Not satisfied, i created another MIX by modifying the following:

• Removed the tab just below the female USB-C connector. I had already made this modification previously because all the USB-C cables i have available don’t fit; they hit the tab.
• Plugged the LED hole, which i find absolutely HORRIBLE. Since the LED is on the PCB and not flush with the case, it would need to be placed with a piece of fiber optic fiber the same diameter as the hole, which i will never do. Also, the LED is clearly visible if you use a colored filament from the case with a 50% fill.
• A hole for upgrading the firmware without opening the case. Remember that self-tapping screws on the PLA have a short lifespan. 
• MENU button hole was enlarged to include a cover, which makes the whole thing nice.

Download: PiRTO-II Xad Remixed STL Cartridge Case (194)

source: github.com/aotta/PiRTOII

3D printing and replacement of the pulverized gears on the Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) cassette deck.

I decided to print the gears because are available for download on the Thingiverse website.

I modified the hole diameter which was too narrow and added a fastening system for the two fast-forward gears to avoid using supports during 3D printing.

The fastening system is nothing more than a washer of the right thickness and hole diameter that must be pressed firmly into the pin protruding from the gear until it fits.

The final result is good and works, but the gears are quite noisy; it’s still a homemade print and has nothing to do with the original Teflon or Nylon gears.

Some information about 3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Bambulab A1 Mini
• Filament: ESUN PLA+
• Color: Orange
• Sparse infill density gears: 50%
• Sparse infill density washer: 90%
• Skirt Loops: 3
• Layer Height: 0.1mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ

Gallery:

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Download: Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) Gears STL (181)