After my previous 3D print of the Commodore 1541-II floppy drive front cover, i wanted to fix some internal aspects of the front cover that i felt causing glitches in the print.

I also wanted to try printing diagonally with a few supports, and i have to say that the result is definitely better than the previous one.

Download: Commodore 1541-II Frontcover Fixed v3 (STL) (5)

I was commissioned to do this little job of trust, the repair of a SHARP MZ-800 that had the following problems.

• The composite video RCA connector was torn out.
• The cassette counter reset button was broken.

After several attempts to glue the broken pieces back together and not finding anyone online who had designed it, i decided to make it myself from scratch and print it, for such a small size, the result is quite good.

Regarding the missing RCA connector, i installed a new one by soldering it directly on the modulator chassis.

Gallery:

Download: Reset Button TAPE Recorder Sharp MZ-800 by Xad (95)

Although i’ve already modified an original VideoPAC game cartridge to fith the PicoPAC by A. Ottaviani, i also wanted to try the 3D-designed case by Yannick Erb but i have modified a few things that i didn’t like.

The final result is good.

Here are the modifications i made to Yannick Erb’s case:

• Enlarged the hole to fith the button cover.
• Hole for the firmware update button.
• PicoPAC logo using VideoPAC fonts (there is also a version with a colored logo)
• Guides to lock the top cover so it can’t be lifted or moved left or right.

Gallery:

Download: PicoPAC Cartridge Case by Yannick Erb mixed by Xad (99)

Source: https://github.com/aotta/PicoPAC

A few months ago, i printed 3D the MOS 6581 LightBox but out of laziness i hadn’t yet installed a home automation LED strip.

I’ll leave you with the photos, there’s no point in describing what seems obvious :D

Gallery:

The print of the case for the Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Harlequin version has been finished with a total print time of 23 hours (slow print mode), including filament drying.

These are the changes made to the original designs:

• The feet on the bottom of the case have been removed to avoid the need supports; non-slip feet can now be applied without any problems.
• The depth of the square hole on the front panel for the Commodore logo has been reduced.
• Removed the POWER and DRIVE text on the faceplate embossed and not printing correctly with a new carved text.
• The hole on the front panel for the MeGALoDOS OLED has been closed.
• Commodore label for the front panel.

Link original project:

• https://www.printables.com/model/516220-frontcover-for-commodore-1541-ii-with-megalodos-mu
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348655
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349480

Gallery:

Download: STL files for Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Case (156) (FIXED Download LINK)

I needed a volume control lever for one of my NMS-1515 recorders. I couldn’t find a ready-made STL, so i designed it myself.

I’ve published the STL on major 3D object sites: thingiverse.com, makerworld.com, printables.com, makeronline.com and many others.

3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo
• Filament: Anycubic PLA+
• Color: Black
• Sparse infill density: 50%
• Skirt Loops: 2
• Layer Height: 0.16mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ
• Ironing: All top surface
• Support: Tree (auto)

Download: Volume Lever Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) STL (141)

I made some modifications to the case for A. Ottaviani PiRTO-II cartridge.

I modified the case redesigned by Eskimo, which is essentially a MIX with some improvements to the A. Ottaviani case.

Not satisfied, i created another MIX by modifying the following:

• Removed the tab just below the female USB-C connector. I had already made this modification previously because all the USB-C cables i have available don’t fit; they hit the tab.
• Plugged the LED hole, which i find absolutely HORRIBLE. Since the LED is on the PCB and not flush with the case, it would need to be placed with a piece of fiber optic fiber the same diameter as the hole, which i will never do. Also, the LED is clearly visible if you use a colored filament from the case with a 50% fill.
• A hole for upgrading the firmware without opening the case. Remember that self-tapping screws on the PLA have a short lifespan. 
• MENU button hole was enlarged to include a cover, which makes the whole thing nice.

Download: PiRTO-II Xad Remixed STL Cartridge Case (194)

source: github.com/aotta/PiRTOII