This Amiga 4000 is completely devastated on both sides of the PCB by the leaked acid of the battery and kept in a humid room for at least 20 years.

There are still a couple of things to keep, but i will do it later if necessary.

First of all, a premise: All the repairs i do are for hobby purpose ONLY. It is NOT a job, and i fix stuff for a selected people group that i consider needs my help. All other people please ask somewhere else to get your items repaired back.

A guy contacted me asking help for a repair and after an exchange of messages i agreed to repair his Amiga 4000 which at boot only displayed a Black screen.

I immediately noticed a fairly important damage caused by battery and caps acid leakage.

After cleaned everything and replaced capacitors on motherboard / 3640 and PSU (the fault persisted, of course).

Next, i used the Chucky DIAGROM: the DIAGROM is useful to understand what might be that doesn’t work, and the output via RS232 is also very useful if nothing is displayed on the screen.

Unfortunately the DIAGROM worked partially because the mouse was completely dead and therefore i have used the output via Serial but this is also worked partially because evidently also the serial is dead but in some precarious moments i  have tried to run the Sound test and no sound was reproduced.

Moral: Partially working Serial port + Mouse not working + Audio not working = Paula.

Replaced the PAULA (U400) everything started to work correctly apart the FASTRAM with 4 x 4MB SIMM modules each the system sees only 2 in the U852/U853 positions for a total of 8MB.

The problem was a short circuit probably caused by the acid leaking from the battery, i had to clean the PCB for the tenth time and the problem was fixed.

No more other to say, except that i am happy i succeeded to repaired this Amiga 4000 for a person that needed my help.

Gallery of the repair:

12►

Video:

Two new mounting system for the optional RGB controllable 24 LED light strip for inside the 64c case.

Angled mount version:

This mounting design attaches to the top of the metal shield surrounding the cartridge port. Its angle allows the light of the RGB LEDs to exit through the ventilation slots of the C64c case.

Keyboard mount version:

This mounting design attaches to the back lip of the keyboard through existing factory holes using black oxide screws and heatsets. It is a two piece system with a left and right component.

Like the previous version, the RGB LED light comes out through the ventilation slots of the C64c case.

Note:

This version is not fully compatible with my keyboard mount that i’m using on the left side. I had to remove with the hacksaw a piece of plastic to solve the problem. (see photo)

Gallery:

source: corei64.com